Many years before the word "sport" has become known in European world, Hawaiian islanders used surfing as a recreational activity. He'enalu (that means wave sliding in Hawaiian) achieved a specila status and respectability in ancient Hawaii.
Renowned surfers were celebrated in songs and dances. They got respect of all Hawaiians and often enjoyed special privilegies. For royal family to be a good surfer was a must. Members of the royal family and chiefly class has their own board shapers and beaches for surfing.
Renowned surfers were celebrated in songs and dances. They got respect of all Hawaiians and often enjoyed special privilegies. For royal family to be a good surfer was a must. Members of the royal family and chiefly class has their own board shapers and beaches for surfing.
Ancient Hawaiian surfers used three types of surf boards: the olo, the kiko'o, and the alaia. The olo is thick in the middle and grows thinner toward the edges. It is a good board for a wave that swells and rushes shoreward but not for a wave that rises up high and curls over.
Another remarkable fact about surfing on Hawaii is that Hawaiians used surf prayers. If conditions were not good for surfing and distant storms didn't generate suitable waves, Hawaiian surfers would invite a kahuna (Hawaiian priest) and literally pray for surf.
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